I’ve been eyeing this side table for a while. I actually love Crate & Barrel. I love everything about this table… the material, the shape, all of it! But, I didn’t want to spend over $500 on a side table, so I set out to crate a DIY Crate & Barrel pedestal table dupe.
I’ve now developed the reflex of asking myself… “Can I do it” when I don’t want to put the budget into something that I don’t want to splurge on. And the answer is YES!!!
I’ve done a few projects with plaster and joint compound and love the look it has. The unpolished feel is beautiful and unique. All I needed was a mold to be able to do the base.
How I got the idea to DIY a Crate & Barrel pedestal table dupe
One day, I was driving and saw this construction / safety cone that was thrown away on the side of the road, probably abandoned after some construction work. I stopped and took it. I just had to clean it and use it. Obviously, you can buy one too and that makes things easier!
I was overjoyed to think I can do a table that’s similar to the Crate & Barrel table.
So here it is, all the process and how the finished table looks like.
Time: about 1.5 week factoring in drying time
- Cement mixer
- Sand paper 220 grit
- Measuring tape
- Wood scraper
- Joint compound 90
- Cement contact glue
- Round marble board (unless you want it all in plaster… check my other side table post to make a plaster top)
- PVC flexible safety cone
- Furniture pads or a piece of thin felt
- Duct tape
- Piece of scrap wood larger than bottom of cone
Let’s get to work!
Measure the cone to the height of the table leg you need, leave an extra 3 inches and cut the rest with the cutter. Using a hacksaw, cut off the bottom of the cone.
Take a piece of scrap wood to place the cone on it and secure the bottom of the cone with duct tape to fix it to the piece of wood. Prior to that, if your cone is not new, make sure you clean it thoroughly inside and outside.
Mix your joint compound with water until it becomes like a bit of a liquid paste and pour it into the cone.
The texture you’ll achieve is important because this is what will help fill the cone properly or not. If it’s too much like a paste you may have bigger holes when you remove the mold. But it shouldn’t be too liquid either.
Work in steps filling about 5 inches at a time. Make sure you tap the cone between fillings to ensure the compound is properly distributed inside the cone avoiding big hole as much as possible.
Don’t worry though, there will still be a possibility to patch and fix these later.
The reason I used a 90 compound is that it dries faster but that means that you also have to work with it faster.
The mixture may still go through the duct tape, if this happens, wipe the excess and gently remove the tape when done pouring all the mixture. Then, let it dry for 48h.
Make sure you put something heavy on top to stabilize it and avoid the cone from moving.
Is it dry yet!!! I was so impatient to see how it turned out 🙂 The drying time wait was long..lol! But I finally made it through the 48h!
Gently cut through the cone with a cutter making sure you don’t cut too deep so the leg doesn’t get damaged. If you feel it’s not dry enough, keep it longer. Otherwise, remove the cone. The joint compound will probably still need to dry on the inside, leave it an extra 24 h-48h.
If there are holes, use a plastic spatula and/or your fingers to fill them with more joint compound, wait till they dry and sand. Repeat as necessary until the surface is all smooth or to your liking.
I did this around 3 times until I was happy with how it looked. It’s important to sand properly in between each round of filling the holes.
It’s time to see if the table leg is levelled. Using the level, make sure it is straight, if not, scrape / sand the extra plaster until it is.
Now you can prime. Once dry, paint two layers with the color of your choice, allowing to dry in between. I used Benjamin Moore Simply White. Alternatively, you can also use acrylic paint. It’s important to prime though because this is joint compound and a porous material that will absorb the paint.
Then stick the furniture pads or felt at the bottom. I cut a round piece of felt equal to the bottom of the pedestal because I wanted it to be right at the floor level.
To put them together, measure the centre of your top and mark down with a pencil the width of the leg top on the centre of the marble. So if the top of the leg is 4 inches in diameter, mark that down on the bottom centre of your table top.
Apply the glue on both ends. Wait for 15 minutes and secure them together.
I suggest putting the table upside down since it’s heavier so the glue will adhere better with the weight.
Let it dry and voilà! This is how you can make your own Crate & Barrel pedestal table dupe.
My favourite part always is the styling! I have already styled it three different ways, and will probably try some more 🙂
Let me know what you think and if you try it.
Some sources found on the pictures:
Wall Art – Use code LARA for 20% off
Vitruvi Move Diffuser – Use code LARA20 for 20% off
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