If you love curves and rounded soft edges in your home, then you may like this side table.
I have a lot of curves in my home, from arches to curves in furniture and so on. I love the softness they bring to a space and the visual interest they add.

A while back, I diy’ed two fluted side tables with plaster of Paris. My youngest son accidentally knocked one of them over and the top broke. So instead of throwing it away, I just wanted to replace the top. What inspired me is the shape of the pond mirror I’ve been eyeing for a while now. So I thought why not have a table top with an irregular, curved shape. it would add interest and I could reuse the fluted table leg that I still love.
So, I went to pick a piece of wood from the garage. I have a lot of scrap wood that I always keep from projects we do, and whenever I can, I reuse them for DIYs.
This is what you’ll need to do this table.
Difficulty level: easy
Time: approximately 2-3 hours of work (not calculating any wait time in between steps)
Tools
- Orbital sander
- 120 & 220 grit sandpaper
- Mitre saw
- Paint brush
Materials
- Wood (I used pine). It can also be done with MDF or any scrap wood
- Joint compound
- Spatula
- Contact cement glue
- Primer
- Paint
- Polycrilic
Start by drawing your desired shape. Make sure you measure so that you have the tabletop size you need. This one is approximately 16″ x 23″.
Using the saw, cut the shape. I used 2 pieces of wood because I wanted the top to be thick.
If you do that, glue the 2 shapes together and wait until the glue is properly dried.
Then, lightly sand the surface of the wood with 220 grit if your wood is already smooth.
Sand the edges and round them with a 120 grit, then smooth the edges with a 220 grit. When you’re happy with the surface and the edges, clean the wood from any residue with a damp towel and let it dry.
Then, it’s time to apply joint compound. use a spatula to cover the whole piece of wood. I wanted a textured surface so I applied the joint compound in different directions and did not smooth it. Once one side is dry, turn it upside down and apply to the other side then let it dry.
If you feel that you need to make some touch ups or have a different texture, apply a second coat of joint compound, otherwise you’re good to go to the next step.
Now it’s time to sand the joint compound. Again, how much you sand it will determine the texture you’ll have. I wanted a smooth surface with texture, so I made sure I did not sand all the surface equally. This step will require you to use a 120 grit paper and you’ll need to sand with you hand without the sander to have better control on how much and where you’re sanding.
When it’s done to your liking, wipe with a slightly damp cloth and allow to dry if needed. Then use a wall primer to prime it and then paint with the color of your choice. I used Benjamin Moore Simply White because I had it on hand and wanted my table white. Alternatively, you can also use acrylic paint if you wish.
Allow the paint to dry and spray with a protector. Then measure the centre of the table top, mark it down on the bottom surface to determine where your leg will go.
Use glue on both the top and leg to glue them together. I found that the only glue that worked and was solid on plaster and joint compound was the contact cement glue.
Once both pieces are properly secured together and the glue well dried, apply two coats of polycrylic to protect and seal. Then, time to style your table!
If you want to create the same look with the fluted plaster leg, check out my other blog on the initial side tables.